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TRAVEL GEARS and ACCESSORIES
Biking in Vietnam
Vietnam is rapidly becoming one of the most popular countries
in the world for adventurous bike touring. It’s easy to see why.
This long, slender land with such an unhappy history has an
amazing array of landscapes, with thousands of km of roads linking
mountains and beaches, jungle with intensive paddy field
landscapes. Vietnam represents a viscerally intense cycling and
cultural experience, love it or hate it, you will not forget your
trip.
There are many possible cycle tours in Vietnam, ranging from
very tough and challenging rides in the northern uplands, to more
gentle meanders along the Mekong Delta. The classic route for
cyclists is Highway 1, the main road linking Hanoi in the north to
Ho Chi Minh City in the south. The most popular section of Hwy 1
is from the historic capital of Hue south to Nha Trang and other
tourist resorts to the south. For the fitter and more adventurous
cyclist, the central and northern highlands are very worthwhile
challenges.
What to take?
Roads in Vietnam can be rough in sections, and more minor roads
are often dirt tracks. However, for most of the main routes, the
surface is good enough for almost any type of bike, except perhaps
for the lightest of road bikes. Even the paved roads can be a bit
muddy, don’t forget your mudguards. Bike repair shops are around
in nearly every town, but they often do not have the tools for
western bikes. Local bikes are usually poor quality and are not
recommended for touring. Bring a basic toolkit or multitool and
some spare spokes, along with a cracker/chain whip for repairing
drive-side spokes. Regular touring or road tyres are sufficient
for most of the country.
The climate changes significantly from north to south. There
can be snow in winter in Sapa, at the same time as it is 40°C in
Ho Chi Minh City. The coast can be very windy. Rain can be heavy
and persistent over most of the country at many times of the year.
Only in later winter on the northern highlands would serious
wet/cold weather gear normally be required. Elsewhere, a light
fleece and wind/waterproof top should be sufficient in addition to
your normal kit. There is no major cultural problem with wearing
shorts/lycra, but longer trousers/skirts may be more appropriate
in more remote areas or visiting temples. T-shirts and casual
clothes are widely available, and if you can’t find anything to
fit you, there are numerous tailors who will make you anything
from shorts to a silk sleeping bag liner to a tuxedo, all in a few
hours. Cosmetics and medicines are very widely available, but
watch out for counterfeits.
Camping is very difficult in most of Vietnam; there are few
suitable places to pitch a tent. Nearly every town will have
guesthouses, so tents and sleeping bags are an unnecessary
encumbrance. Expect to pay between US$6 to US$20 a night in a
typical guesthouse or local hotel. The quality is very variable,
and can rarely be judged by outside appearances so always check
out a room on offer before accepting it. Food and beer is very
cheap and usually of a high quality. The best Vietnamese cooking
is superb, always ask locals for recommendations, Vietnamese
people are enthusiastic foodies. Vegetarian food is usually
available, but sometimes communicating what you want is difficult.
Roadside stalls selling food and drink are nearly everywhere so it
is not necessary to bring cooking equipment or food (apart from
snacks). Chlorine or iodine tabs are necessary for drinking tap
water in most of the country.
Safety
The roads near the major cities are often chaotic, polluted and
accidents are frequent. The quality of driving often leaves a lot
to be desired. However, many Vietnamese cycles and as a result,
drivers are usually quite ‘bike aware’ and leave a reasonable
gap between themselves and cyclists. The hard shoulder on major
roads is usually considered cyclist’s territory. One of the joys
of cycling in the Vietnamese lowlands is riding in the early dawn
with crowds of cycling schoolchildren. The usual Asian driving
rule that the right of way goes to the biggest vehicle applies.
Watch closely local cyclists and copy what they do and you should
be quite safe. Remember that most vehicles will toot their horn
once to let you know they are coming behind you. A second toot
means you are directly in its path. A third toot means hit the
paddy field immediately if you want to live!
In general, Vietnam is a safe country to travel in. There is
some petty crime but violence against tourists is rare. Both male
and female cyclists rarely experience aggression, hassle or
danger, but the normal common-sense precautions should be taken,
especially after dark in urban areas. Although guesthouse owners
will normally report to the local police travellers outside the
normal tourist areas, hassle from police/army is unknown, but as a
precaution do not be seen taking photographs of anything that
looks militarily significant.
The people
The Vietnamese people are very distinct in their culture and in
their approach to westerners from other SE Asians. This is
unsurprising given the countries history, where in the second half
of the 20th Century they had to defeat successive invasions from
the Japanese, French, Americans and Chinese at a cost of millions
of lives. Tourists often complain of rudeness from locals and
frequent rip-offs, but this is mainly a feature of the tourist
hotspots. Most bike tourers, who have been to Vietnam, experience
generosity and friendship, especially in more remote areas. While
the Vietnamese are not as immediately warm and welcoming as, for
example, the Thai or Laos, do not confuse a relatively cool
reaction with hostility. When you show politeness and respect for
their culture, expect this to be reciprocated, but demonstrate
rudeness (as many tourists do), then do not expect the Vietnamese
to turn the other cheek. Be friendly and open with local people
and you will get on fine. If you do face rudeness or attempted
rip-offs, be firm and do not lose your cool. You will usually not
have to work too hard to find someone with a little English, even
in remote areas. Many Vietnamese also have a little French,
Russian or Mandarin Chinese. As with most countries, learning a
few phrases of the local language goes down well with the locals.
Northern Vietnam
The landscape of the north of Vietnam is characterised by
jungle clad weathered karst limestone mountains. Hanoi is located
on one of the few plains, it’s a sprawling city full of
character, and it’s surprisingly easy to explore by bike once
you bite the bullet and join the masses of scooters and bikes. The
most popular route for cyclists is to explore the highlands west
and north of Hanoi along Highway 6, eventually ending in Sapa,
where you can return to Hanoi by train, or turn north into China
at the nearby border crossing point. In total it is about 700km,
but it can easily be cut short by returning by bus or plane (there
are airports near Son La and Dien Bien Phu). There is a string of
towns along the route, but there are some large distances between
settlements, so be prepared for some long, tough days in the
saddle. Good places to stop include the beautiful Lac village near
Mai Chau and the pleasant little town of Son La. This route is
physically demanding, and should only be tackled by fit and/or
experienced cyclists. However, it is highly recommended it as it
passes through stunning landscapes in areas rarely seen by
tourists.
Highway 1
The classic Vietnam ride. Few cyclists go the whole route from
Hanoi to Ho Chi Minh City, most bypassing the relatively dull
northern section. But from Hue south the riding is excellent and
it gives an amazing kaleidoscope of the best and worst of Vietnam
and its people. The road conditions are generally reasonably good,
with a few moderately challenging hills. Traffic can be
uncomfortably heavy in the vicinity of larger towns and cities
such as Da Nang, but is generally acceptable. There are plenty of
guesthouses at reasonable intervals. Good bases for rest,
relaxation and exploration include the ancient capital of Hue, the
lovely historic town of Hoi An, and the large beach resort of Nha
Trang. Most cyclists skip the last 200-km or so to Ho Chi Minh
City due to the heavy traffic, but it is cyclable.
Mekong Delta
The Mekong Delta is for many people the essence of Vietnam. It
is as large and as flat as the Netherlands, with a fascinating
patchwork of dazzling green fields and palm trees intersected by
giant branches of the Mekong. Cycling is easy and there are
regular towns and villages, but traffic can be intense close to Ho
Chi Minh City and the high population density means you are rarely
alone. There are relatively few main roads, but there is a rich
network of tracks to explore for the adventurous cyclist. My Tho,
Can Tho and Chau Doc are popular stops. Chau Doc is the main
gateway to Cambodia.
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Biking in
Vietnam
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