
KHAU VAI LOVE MARKET
This year we are joining thousands of local people in
their annual appointment at the Khau Vai Love Market.
This is an opportunity to discover one of the most
beautiful regions of Vietnam with limestone karsts and
colorfully dressed local hill-tribes, Ha Giang and its
neighborhood frontier area, a region rich in legends.
You will meet the traditional owners of this land, the
H'Mong, Dao, Giay, Nung, La Chi, Lo Lo, Bo Y, Pa Then,
and Pu Peo people. They will welcome you in a simple and
friendly manner, as if you were a member of their family
who has been far away for a long time but has now
returned.
I have been to the market many times, there is nothing
special, nothing particularly memorable. Nevertheless,
when the maize flower is blowing and the moon shining
brightly, it touches my heart and I remember the
folksong a young H'Mong girl sang one day. I am reminded
of Khau Vai Love market. I am coming back one more time
and will forever remember it.
We will organize 2 different trips to the Khau Vai Love
market, 6 or 9 days.
The 6 day trip is very challenging and requires highly
skilled experienced riding. This trip will pass through
rocky, muddy and slippery roads during the 2007 rainy
season. However, this is some of the best fun for riding
a motorbike, simply put, this road is made for
motorbiking.
The 9-day trip is an easier ride, through many villages
where you will have opportunities to visit ethnic
minority homes. Don't be in a hurry riding, be amazed by
the crazy shock of the different cultures. Your guide
will always be with you to help bridge the gap between
cultures and make your trip unforgettable. This trip
will take you about 1,000kms along the Chinese border
with the most beautiful and spectacular limestone
mountain karsts landscape in Vietnam.
So far, we are one of the very few companies
specializing in tours to this region and have spent
years studying and researching the land and people in Ha
Giang province. It is difficult for other tour companies
to get the necessary travel permits for Ha Giang but for
us it is so easy to take you to visit our cousins.
Detail Itinerary
ITINERARY 1 (GTTKV001): 6 days / 6 nights (from May 11th
to 17th )
Day 1 (Friday, May 11th ): Lao Cai - Xin Man - Ha
Giang
The train arrives in Lao Cai at 6.30 am, we will get our
bikes and then prepare for the adventure; after
breakfast in a local restaurant in Lao Cai town, we will
fill up with gasoline and roll out along road no. 70 to
Bac Ngam. We will stop to enjoy the beautiful scenery
and mountain and river views. Then we head up the
mountain pass to Bac Ha for lunch and take a short walk
to visit some
H'Mong villages.
In the afternoon we continue along the small trail to
Xin Man, rough and rocky but enjoyable riding.
Then it's 100kms of mountain passes, along the Chay
river for great bike riding up and down Sky Gate "Cong
Troi" (passes going to Sky).
In the afternoon before arriving to Ha Giang we will
make a stop to relax and swim in the natural hot spring.
Day 2 (Saturday, May 12th ): Ha Giang -
Dong Van - Meo Vac - Khau Vai
Rise and shine for a few hours trek to many of the
Heaven Gates such as Quan Ba, Yen Binh, Dong Van. They
are so called because one gets the feeling of touching
the sky - the heaven's gates. This is the best time and
place to appreciate the wonderful vast limestone
mountain range and perpendicular rock walls, which
brings one a feeling of adventure while being lost in a
magical land.
Here we are surrounded by many rocks of all shapes and
sizes. After lunch at Yen Minh town, this scenic route
climbs over a pass before arriving in Pho Bang, also
called Pho Bang Street, which was built many centuries
ago and features multi-storey houses made of clay bricks
and tiled roofs. Visit some of our friends, who are Hoa
- Chinese minority. Then we continue our trip to visit
the infamous Vuong Palace, a H'Mong family of high rank
during French colonial rule, Vuong Chi Sinh, who was
purported to be the H'Mong King in Vietnam. This palace
attracts keen interest from architecturally minded
visitors due to its mixed style of European and Chinese
architecture.
After bidding farewell, we climb over the Ma Pi Leng
Pass from which we can see and enjoy a beautiful sunset
overlooking the Nho Que river.
Visiting these remote areas, we will see how hard the
local people struggle with their environment for their
survival and development. Because the living conditions
are extremely hard - there is barely any arable land
within the rocky mountains - the people who live there
survive on a diet of corn, which is about the only crop
able to grow in the poor rocky soil. Even through this
hardship, the local people are very friendly and simple,
yet develop strong attachments to other people. They are
the soul of this remote area.
Before sunset we ride up to Khau Vai, where the mountain
hill tribes are looking for their intimate friends not
seen since their last appointment one year ago. Warm
your way through the crowd of thousands of colourfully
dressed locals. You will need to find your own emotions
and words to describe this experience!
We spend all night "to do nothing, see nothing
but…great!" go to bed whenever you feel tired, poor
noisy accommodation because the local people don't sleep
tonight!
Day 3 (Sunday, May 13th ): Khau Vai - Meo
Vac
We spend more time in the market to discover more
mysteries about this culture and event, then return to
Meo Vac town for lunch. Take a siesta, then continue to
explore the border area, considered one of the wildest
regions in the Northern part of Vietnam. It is a
beautiful landscape of limestone karsts populated with
these colorful ethnic minority people.
Follow the Nho Que river close to the Chinese border. On
the way, we will stop at many corners where local people
are gathered and sharing sentiments over a bowl of corn
wine, and listen to their stories.
Day 4 (Monday, May 14th): Meo Vac - Lung
Phin - Bac Me
We are lucky enough to visit Lung Phin market which is
held according to the Chinese calendar, the 12 animal
designations such as Rat, Ox, Tiger, Hare/Rabbit,
Dragon, Snake, Horse, Sheep/Goat, Monkey, Rooster, Dog
and Pig. This market is held on Monkey and Tiger days,
instead of the weekend. Today is "mau than" - day of the
monkey.
This is a far more interesting market then Dong Van, Meo
Vac or Yen Minh market. It is right on the hill-side,
most of the locals walk here from faraway villages. Some
wealthier families come by horse. There are just a few
motorbikes belonging to people from the lowlands coming
to exchange goods.
The next 70 km of road is a bad road, probably one of
the worst in North Vietnam but it is the best road for
thrilling motorbiking. It seems as if this road was made
motorbiking! So try your best, muster all your energy
and have as much fun as you can!
Day 5 (Tuesday, May 15th ): Bac Me - Ba Be
Yesterday you had an opportunity to develop your riding
skills, and again today it's time to muster up all your
skill, technique and experience for 80 km of forest
road. Only with the help of our experienced guides will
you not get lost in one of the 16 branching roads. Along
the way, we traverse many tall passes and deep river
valleys. This road trip will take only 3-4 hours during
the dry season, but at least 7-8 hours during the rainy
season. However, the impression of 'conquering nature'
makes the hardship all worthwhile. Upon arrival, we will
cross 3 rivers between 20-30 m wide but only 70 cm deep,
all managed with the instructions of our experienced
guide. The remaining 3 km of the journey is an easy
pleasant ride and time to relax. You will ride along an
open hillside road surrounding the Nang River. Catch
your breath while you can! We complete our journey with
the next destination being the Dau Dang waterfall. It is
a lunch stop to break our long journey and stretch our
legs, take the tiredness away and share the day's
adventure with the owner of the Nang river restaurant -
Mr. Pirate.
Then we canoe our hearts out through the tranquil lakes
of Ba Be - renowned for their majesty, with an option to
swim or trek to visit Tay ethnic minorities and talk
with the local people.
Day 6 (Wednesday, May 16th ): Ba Be -
Hanoi
The last day, an easy ride 220kms through Thai Nguyen,
Bac Kan, and Vinh Yen provinces on a small road with
little traffic.
We ride through Tan Trao - the security zone during
French colonization - with beautiful natural forest;
this was a centre of Viet Minh activity.
We continue with a wonderful ride from here to Vinh Yen
passing many rice paddies and palms on the rock cliff
before heading in to the crazy traffic of the National
Highway 2 back to Hanoi.
ITINERARY 2 (GTTKV002): 9 days / 9 nights (from May 9th
to 17th )
Day 1 (Wednesday, May 9th ): Lao Cai - Bac Ha -
Xin Man
The train arrives in Lao Cai at 6.30 am, we will get our
bikes and then prepare for the adventure; after
breakfast in a local restaurant in Lao Cai town, we will
fill up with gasoline and roll out along road no. 70,
then turn left to follow a small dirt trail to Coc Ly,
H'Mong village. After tea with our friends we
continue along the hilly dirt trail to Bac Ha and have
many opportunities to visit villages of the Dao ethnic
minority. After lunch in Bac Ha we will take a short
walk to visit some Flower H'Mong villages.
In the afternoon we continue along the small trail to
Xin Man, rough and rocky but enjoyable riding.
Day 2 (Thursday, May 10th): Xin Man - Ha
Giang
This special day begins by heading south on a rough
muddy dirt road. We then ride down hill past a beautiful
landscape of rice paddies on the mountainsides on the
back way to Xin Man. We will stop in many villages to
chat with local people and learn about their culture.
Then on a better road ride past maize and rice fields
growing on the hillside.
In the afternoon we follow National Highway 2 along Lo
river. Before arriving in Ha Giang we will cross a long
wooden suspension bridge to the other side of the river
to visit some of our friends who own many farms and
spend all their lives on the farm. They have never
traveled more than 20 miles in their life - how lovely
and simple.
Day 3 (Friday, May 11th ): Ha Giang - Bac
Me - Yen Minh
The morning begins with an hour on good road then we go
off-road along a road that doesn't appear on any map
since it is an ancient pathway. There is no traffic but
there are many lovely smiles of local people who will
welcome you to their family for a cup of local herbal or
green tea to clear the tiredness away and give you a
kick of energy to conquer nature.
We have a feeling of our families being somewhere in
these villages and the local people also have a feeling
that we are very close to them by riding a "Iron
Buffalo" the Minsk motorbike. Your guide will help
bridge the cultural gap to understand these different
cultures.
Day 4 (Saturday, May 12th ): Bac Me - Dong
Van - Meo Vac - Khau Vai
Rise and shine for a few hours trek to many of the
Heaven Gates such as Quan Ba, Yen Binh, Dong Van. They
are so called because one gets the feeling of touching
the sky - the heaven's gates. This is the best time and
place to appreciate the wonderful vast limestone
mountain range and perpendicular rock walls, which
brings one a feeling of adventure while being lost in a
magical land.
Here we are surrounded by many rocks of all shapes and
sizes. After lunch at Yen Minh town, this scenic route
climbs over a pass before arriving in Pho Bang, also
called Pho Bang Street, which was built many centuries
ago and features multi-storey houses made of clay bricks
and tiled roofs. Visit some of our friends, who are Hoa
- Chinese minority. Then we continue our trip to visit
the infamous Vuong Palace, a H'Mong family of high rank
during French colonial rule, Vuong Chi Sinh, who was
purported to be the H'Mong King in Vietnam. This palace
attracts keen interest from architecturally minded
visitors due to its mixed style of European and Chinese
architecture.
After bidding farewell, we climb over the Ma Pi Leng
Pass from which we can see and enjoy a beautiful sunset
overlooking the Nho Que river.
Visiting these remote areas, we will see how hard the
local people struggle with their environment for their
survival and development. Because the living conditions
are extremely hard - there is barely any arable land
within the rocky mountains - the people who live there
survive on a diet of corn, which is about the only crop
able to grow in the poor rocky soil. Even through this
hardship, the local people are very friendly and simple,
yet develop strong attachments to other people. They are
the soul of this remote area.
Before sunset we ride up to Khau Vai, where the mountain
hill tribes are looking for their intimate friends not
seen since their last appointment one year ago. Warm
your way through the crowd of thousands of colourfully
dressed locals. You will need to find your own emotions
and words to describe this experience!
We spend all night "to do nothing, see nothing
but…great!" go to bed whenever you feel tired, poor
noisy accommodation because the local people don't sleep
tonight!
Day 5 (Sunday, May 13th ): Khau Vai - Coc
Pang - Bao Lac
We spend more time in the market to discover more of the
mysteries of this local culture and after lunch, we
leave the market and continue down hill to the Nho Que
river on a small dirt trail. Keep following the river
until we meet RC 4 C, cross the river on bamboo raft to
Cao Bang province, where you will meet many Lo Loi, Bo
Y, Dao, Giay people and visit their villages.
We spend the night in the beautiful, quiet and peaceful
town of Bao Lac.
Day 6 (Monday, May 14th ): Bao Lac - Cao
Bang - Pac Bo
Good road on RC 4 with picturesque Pac Lung before
stopping in Nguyen Binh valley, green with the maize and
rice.
Keep rolling up wild mountain pass in to Cao Bang town
for lunch and a short walk to discover some of the
history of the town during the French colonization.
In the afternoon, we ride up to Pac Bo passing by Nuoc
Hai and Ha Quang town.
Visit Pac Bo cave, the point at the Chinese border
where, after 30 years of travelling around the world
looking for a way for Vietnam to achieve independence,
Uncle Ho arrived back in Vietnam to lead the Viet Minh
Revolution.
We stay with a local family, sharing stories with the
older generation about their beloved Uncle Ho who lived
close to them and enjoyed a very simple life.
Day 7 (Tuesday, May 15th ): Pac Bo - Tra
Linh - Ban Gioc - Ha Lang
Continue along the Chinese border and pass through
innumerable vast steep limestone karsts, also visit many
villages which are home to Nung and Tay ethnic people.
The Tay and Nung minority in Cao Bang province migrated
from the neighbouring area on other side of the border.
They have the same local dialect and culture.
Arrive at Ban Gioc, one of the most beautiful waterfalls
in Vietnam, which forms a natural border between Vietnam
and China. The echo of the falls can be heard kilometres
away. In the rainy season, the waterfall makes the
scenery even more magnificent. While here we will take a
bamboo raft trip and have a picnic lunch.
More beautiful riding along the Quay Son river, the
border with China. Then go south to Ha Lang on 15 km of
rocky road.
Day 8 (Wednesday, May 16th ): Ha Lang -
Phuc Hoa - That Khe
In the morning, we make a short hike to visit some
villages, the wildest area in Vietnam's border region.
Local families who live in traditional stilt-houses and
have a rich culture will welcome you. Visit more
villages around Quang Uyen where in the 1950's the Viet
Minh won the battle in Dong Khe and French ran to Lang
Son but they fell into an ambush of Viet Minh. More than
5,000 French were arrested in Coc Xa. However the Viet
Minh had no prison to hold them and the the French
prisoners-of-war lived with many local families, working
alongside them in the rice fields.
Ride through magical landscapes with many lovely smiling
faces and waving hands as you ride through villages. At
the junction of the Bac Vong and Bang Giang rivers, the
border gate was call "Thuy Khau" - river-mouth border
gate - on the China Shuikojie.
Lunch in Ta Lung border town and visit the border gate
then cross Bang Giang river down to the other side of
the Dong Khe valley. This whole area was a battleground
up until the famous Dien Bien Phu victory in 1954. To
break down the French Defending RC 4 along the Chinese
border, the relationship with International Communism
was kept active.
Riding again on the RC 4 to That Khe and visit more
battle fields on this Highway 4.
Day 9 (Friday, May 17th ): That Khe - Lang
Son - Hanoi
More riding on RC 4, Highway 4 to Lang Son, visit
Friendship Border Gate "Huu Nghi Quan" and Dong Dang
town where you will see Chinese products flooding the
town. Don't mention the crazy Minsk running at top speed
and carrying dozens of Chinese goods to dodge the
taxman!
Back to the National Highway 1, ride this smooth wild
road to Chi Lang, the famous site of historical
battlefields and beautiful limestone karsts. You will
see how smart they were to despatch the Chinese army
here.
After lunch in a local restaurant with special food from
Lang Son we head back to Hanoi.
PRICE
Green Trail Tours organizes only full
package tours which are all inclusive. The only
exception is at the request of the travellers when they
want to upgrade their accommodation for something more
luxurious.
* Including:
- Motorbike
Minsk, all fuel;
- Tour guide / Translator;
- Motorbiking protective pants, jacket, gloves, helmet,
rain gear, and other safety equipments;
- Sleeping bags, mosquito nets, sheets, pillows and
accommodations;
- Third party motorbike insurance;
- All food;
- All entrance fees, permits, tickets, boat trips,
ferries, bamboo rafts, etc...
- Green Trail Tours assistance throughout your
trip;
- We also love to celebrate our guests' birthday...Well
anything for a celebration on the open road.
* Personal expense (such as souvenirs), personal
insurance, drinks, food and accommodation in Hanoi, and
tips are not included in our fee.
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